« Anthony《茶餐廳》 | Main | Gipsy《茶餐廳》 »
September 24, 2002
Eric Spanner《茶餐廳》
把「茶餐廳」三個字拆開，可以是「茶」「餐廳」，或是「茶餐」「廳」。前一個拆法就把它放在「日本菜館」、「燒臘飯店」、「漢堡包餐廳」等的行列，它招徠顧客的飲食，是茶。後者呢，便是吃茶餐的地方。兩個解法套在現在的茶餐廳，都通。
茶餐廳菜牌裡最要緊的兩道，和銷路最好的，是茶和茶餐。茶餐廳奉客的茶也有兩款：淡茶供客人止渴洗餐具或清去餐後留在口腔的餘味，慢慢由熱變暖至冷；而加了奶或檸檬的，不論冷熱，都成了「港飲」，很多人不能一日無彼等。茶若不好，咖啡和檸檬水質素多高，也救不了那家茶餐廳。
茶餐除了剛才提的幾款飲品，傳統口味還要有已烘去大量水分的多士或三明治，即食麵、通心粉或雞腿雞翼等等，都是後來出現的──最早期的茶餐廳，就是賣茶啡和麵包，還要用好多的蛋來當三明治餡料及早餐主菜；若是冰室進化而成的，便以四式消暑冰當台柱，它們叫紅豆冰、雜果冰、菠蘿冰和蓮子冰。
從茶啡多士三明治和冰品開始，茶餐廳不待政府和企業呼籲，數十年前起便陸續推出增值產品：營養餐、通心粉、粥粉麵飯、意大利麵、碟頭飯、東南亞特飲、鐵板扒餐、早午晚快常特ABC餐、晚飯小菜和海鮮，甚至魚生，儘管是不太新鮮的幾片三文魚。增值的目的不為厚利，而是加大在多銷之後，賺得求存薄利的機會。而茶餐廳的新飲食，盡量要大眾化，從不走偏鋒，所謂茶餐廳的多元化或包容，都是經過計算才有的。
人流雖多，但茶餐廳的顧客，八九成都是老百姓，跟「大眾化」相距不遠。名人不多會在新界街頭的茶餐廳出現，遊客也少涉足非遊客區的茶餐廳，成為香港居民的非華人，鮮有常到茶餐廳的。走進去，但見都是黃皮膚，操不同口音廣州話的老中青男女，飲食或各異，志向卻一致，首是果腹，二是交誼溝通。老北京有茶館，今香港有茶餐廳。
Posted by ruofei at September 24, 2002 12:00 AM
Trackback Pings
TrackBack URL for this entry:
http://www.ruofei.com/mt-tb.cgi/66
Listed below are links to weblogs that reference Eric Spanner《茶餐廳》:
» phentermine from phentermine
[Read More]
Tracked on March 6, 2006 10:58 PM
» slot machine from slot machine
[Read More]
Tracked on March 8, 2006 11:04 AM
» buy ephedrine from buy ephedrine
[Read More]
Tracked on March 9, 2006 11:27 PM
» ephedrine from ephedrine
[Read More]
Tracked on March 11, 2006 07:15 AM
» Lolita Photos Naturism from Lolita Photos Naturism
[Read More]
Tracked on March 13, 2006 09:03 AM
» gambling from gambling
[Read More]
Tracked on March 17, 2006 09:48 PM
» playing internet bet from playing internet bet
[Read More]
Tracked on March 19, 2006 02:30 PM
» activewear dreamlight from activewear dreamlight
[Read More]
Tracked on March 23, 2006 02:20 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
BLACK EYED PEAS FERGIE PICS [Read More]
Tracked on April 7, 2006 07:16 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
New interesting theme
[Read More]
Tracked on April 10, 2006 09:39 AM
» cialis from cialis
cialis [Read More]
Tracked on April 10, 2006 08:31 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
New interesting theme
[Read More]
Tracked on April 11, 2006 06:30 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Buy Phentermine
[Read More]
Tracked on April 11, 2006 06:59 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Buy Phentermine
[Read More]
Tracked on April 12, 2006 07:29 AM
» be generic buspar from be generic buspar
[Read More]
Tracked on April 12, 2006 10:04 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Buy Phentermine
[Read More]
Tracked on April 13, 2006 04:20 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
New interesting theme
[Read More]
Tracked on April 13, 2006 08:29 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
New interesting theme
[Read More]
Tracked on April 13, 2006 04:52 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Buy phendimetrazine
[Read More]
Tracked on April 19, 2006 02:02 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Buy phentermine
[Read More]
Tracked on April 19, 2006 06:08 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Animal sex photos
[Read More]
Tracked on April 22, 2006 01:18 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Beastiality stories
[Read More]
Tracked on April 22, 2006 05:28 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Large girl
[Read More]
Tracked on April 23, 2006 02:18 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
New fay site
[Read More]
Tracked on April 23, 2006 06:28 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Pipi site
[Read More]
Tracked on April 24, 2006 07:30 PM
» buy diazepam online from
[Read More]
Tracked on April 25, 2006 06:17 PM
» diazepam drug from
[Read More]
Tracked on April 25, 2006 07:40 PM
» diazepam no prescription needed from
[Read More]
Tracked on April 25, 2006 10:14 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Teen chart
[Read More]
Tracked on April 26, 2006 12:38 AM
» pharmacy tramadol from
[Read More]
Tracked on April 26, 2006 07:12 PM
» viagra prices from
[Read More]
Tracked on April 26, 2006 07:57 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Relagen
[Read More]
Tracked on April 27, 2006 06:19 PM
» chelsea hotel from
[Read More]
Tracked on April 29, 2006 05:28 PM
» luxury hotel from luxury hotel
[Read More]
Tracked on April 30, 2006 04:15 PM
» valium from valium
[Read More]
Tracked on May 1, 2006 03:10 PM
» soma from soma
[Read More]
Tracked on May 1, 2006 04:11 PM
» hydrocodone from hydrocodone
[Read More]
Tracked on May 4, 2006 07:24 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Ambien
[Read More]
Tracked on May 4, 2006 08:51 AM
» Allegra from Allegra
[Read More]
Tracked on May 7, 2006 05:52 AM
» Allegra from Allegra
[Read More]
Tracked on May 7, 2006 07:13 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Soma
[Read More]
Tracked on May 7, 2006 11:51 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Buy ambien online
[Read More]
Tracked on May 9, 2006 01:21 AM
» stop smoking from stop smoking
[Read More]
Tracked on May 9, 2006 04:46 AM
» zoloft from zoloft
[Read More]
Tracked on May 11, 2006 06:39 AM
» lucky nugget from lucky nugget
[Read More]
Tracked on May 11, 2006 07:44 AM
» hotel asturias from hotel asturias
[Read More]
Tracked on May 14, 2006 12:58 AM
» airline tickets from airline tickets
[Read More]
Tracked on May 14, 2006 01:26 AM
» prozac from prozac
[Read More]
Tracked on May 15, 2006 04:56 PM
» doxycycline hyc from doxycycline hyc
[Read More]
Tracked on May 15, 2006 04:58 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Propecia
[Read More]
Tracked on May 15, 2006 07:50 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Buy cheap propecia
[Read More]
Tracked on May 16, 2006 12:00 AM
» adipex dangers from adipex dangers
[Read More]
Tracked on May 16, 2006 06:34 PM
» cruise review from cruise review
[Read More]
Tracked on May 17, 2006 08:56 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Buy valium
[Read More]
Tracked on May 20, 2006 08:09 AM
» soma from soma
[Read More]
Tracked on May 20, 2006 08:54 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Cheap viagra online
[Read More]
Tracked on May 21, 2006 09:09 AM
» teen sex gallery from teen sex gallery
[Read More]
Tracked on May 24, 2006 01:54 AM
» allopurinol from allopurinol
[Read More]
Tracked on May 24, 2006 07:41 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Fat girls
[Read More]
Tracked on May 27, 2006 02:39 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Fat girls
[Read More]
Tracked on May 27, 2006 06:49 AM
» prozac online from prozac online
[Read More]
Tracked on May 29, 2006 03:36 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Hot piss
[Read More]
Tracked on May 29, 2006 04:39 AM
» buy soma online from buy soma online
[Read More]
Tracked on May 29, 2006 06:49 AM
» buy cheap viagra from buy cheap viagra
[Read More]
Tracked on May 30, 2006 12:07 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Chart live sex
[Read More]
Tracked on May 30, 2006 05:39 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Chart live sex
[Read More]
Tracked on May 31, 2006 06:39 AM
» skelaxin from skelaxin
[Read More]
Tracked on June 1, 2006 06:06 AM
» lorazepam from lorazepam
[Read More]
Tracked on June 1, 2006 09:02 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Chart live sex
[Read More]
Tracked on June 2, 2006 04:32 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Chart live sex
[Read More]
Tracked on June 3, 2006 05:30 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Chart live sex
[Read More]
Tracked on June 5, 2006 07:30 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Chart live sex
[Read More]
Tracked on June 7, 2006 05:18 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Lesbian photo
[Read More]
Tracked on June 9, 2006 07:17 AM
» meridia from meridia
[Read More]
Tracked on June 9, 2006 08:35 AM
» hydrocodone from hydrocodone
[Read More]
Tracked on June 10, 2006 06:03 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Asian mature
[Read More]
Tracked on June 11, 2006 09:50 PM
» hydrocodone ap ap from hydrocodone ap ap
[Read More]
Tracked on June 12, 2006 09:08 PM
» story success xenical from story success xenical
[Read More]
Tracked on June 15, 2006 09:05 PM
» hoodia product from hoodia product
[Read More]
Tracked on June 16, 2006 07:16 PM
» diflucan dose from diflucan dose
[Read More]
Tracked on June 18, 2006 03:04 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Zoo sex man
[Read More]
Tracked on June 19, 2006 08:52 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Animal sex
[Read More]
Tracked on June 19, 2006 01:02 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Horse sex
[Read More]
Tracked on June 19, 2006 05:13 PM
» hydrocodone side effects from hydrocodone side effects
[Read More]
Tracked on June 20, 2006 08:16 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Panty pics
[Read More]
Tracked on June 21, 2006 03:03 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
She panties
[Read More]
Tracked on June 21, 2006 07:12 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Satin panties
[Read More]
Tracked on June 22, 2006 04:01 PM
» femdom ballbusting from femdom ballbusting
[Read More]
Tracked on June 22, 2006 07:09 PM
» butalbital sale from butalbital sale
[Read More]
Tracked on June 22, 2006 09:24 PM
» alprazolam overnight from alprazolam overnight
[Read More]
Tracked on June 22, 2006 09:31 PM
» generic diflucan from generic diflucan
[Read More]
Tracked on June 23, 2006 08:29 PM
» buy phentermine online from buy phentermine online
[Read More]
Tracked on June 24, 2006 05:09 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Slut wife
[Read More]
Tracked on June 24, 2006 06:01 PM
» buy valium online from buy valium online
[Read More]
Tracked on June 25, 2006 04:20 PM
» buy soma online from buy soma online
[Read More]
Tracked on June 26, 2006 09:40 AM
» plavix from plavix
[Read More]
Tracked on June 26, 2006 02:55 PM
» buy cheap prozac from buy cheap prozac
[Read More]
Tracked on June 26, 2006 03:22 PM
» ephedrine online from ephedrine online
[Read More]
Tracked on June 27, 2006 10:36 AM
» zyban online from zyban online
[Read More]
Tracked on June 28, 2006 10:12 AM
» phentermine from phentermine
[Read More]
Tracked on June 29, 2006 01:53 AM
» phentermine from phentermine
[Read More]
Tracked on June 29, 2006 07:20 AM
» buy meridia online from buy meridia online
[Read More]
Tracked on June 29, 2006 10:20 AM
» baccarat online play from baccarat online play
baccarat online play [Read More]
Tracked on June 29, 2006 10:49 AM
» buy soma online from buy soma online
[Read More]
Tracked on June 30, 2006 08:30 AM
» levitra online from levitra online
[Read More]
Tracked on July 1, 2006 05:53 AM
» amoxicillin from amoxicillin
[Read More]
Tracked on July 1, 2006 06:08 AM
» ativan online from ativan online
[Read More]
Tracked on July 1, 2006 11:11 PM
» buy prilosec online from buy prilosec online
[Read More]
Tracked on July 2, 2006 02:58 AM
» ephedra from ephedra
[Read More]
Tracked on July 2, 2006 05:00 AM
» 1 from 1
[Read More]
Tracked on July 2, 2006 09:20 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Horny wife
[Read More]
Tracked on July 3, 2006 08:52 PM
» valium side effects from valium side effects
[Read More]
Tracked on July 4, 2006 10:44 PM
» cialis drug from cialis drug
[Read More]
Tracked on July 7, 2006 05:01 PM
» cialis online pharmacy from cialis online pharmacy
[Read More]
Tracked on July 7, 2006 05:39 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Family incest
[Read More]
Tracked on July 8, 2006 01:20 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Free incest stories
[Read More]
Tracked on July 8, 2006 05:34 PM
» buy cheap soma from buy cheap soma
[Read More]
Tracked on July 9, 2006 07:37 PM
» buy bextra from buy bextra
[Read More]
Tracked on July 10, 2006 01:18 PM
» buy cheap diet pills from buy cheap diet pills
[Read More]
Tracked on July 10, 2006 03:37 PM
» phentermine pharmacy from phentermine pharmacy
[Read More]
Tracked on July 10, 2006 05:52 PM
» butalbital side effects from butalbital side effects
[Read More]
Tracked on July 11, 2006 01:59 PM
» butalbital sale from butalbital sale
[Read More]
Tracked on July 11, 2006 03:22 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Rape pics
[Read More]
Tracked on July 13, 2006 10:00 AM
» order tramadol online from order tramadol online
[Read More]
Tracked on July 14, 2006 09:50 AM
» tramadol 50mg from tramadol 50mg
[Read More]
Tracked on July 14, 2006 09:50 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Lesbian rape
[Read More]
Tracked on July 16, 2006 08:49 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Fat
[Read More]
Tracked on July 17, 2006 05:39 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Fat butt
[Read More]
Tracked on July 18, 2006 06:39 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Chubby girls
[Read More]
Tracked on July 19, 2006 03:59 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Fat pussy
[Read More]
Tracked on July 20, 2006 12:49 PM
» viagra side effects from viagra side effects
[Read More]
Tracked on July 21, 2006 12:16 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Hentai galleries
[Read More]
Tracked on July 21, 2006 05:59 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Free hentai
[Read More]
Tracked on July 22, 2006 02:49 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Cartoon sex
[Read More]
Tracked on July 23, 2006 11:38 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Anime sex
[Read More]
Tracked on July 23, 2006 03:49 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Pokemon hentai
[Read More]
Tracked on July 24, 2006 12:40 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Pissing one
[Read More]
Tracked on July 25, 2006 05:49 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Pissing sex chart
[Read More]
Tracked on July 26, 2006 02:38 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Pissing pics
[Read More]
Tracked on July 26, 2006 06:48 PM
» buy viagra from buy viagra
[Read More]
Tracked on July 26, 2006 08:55 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Debut pissing
[Read More]
Tracked on July 26, 2006 10:58 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Pissing search
[Read More]
Tracked on July 27, 2006 03:39 PM
» poker chips from poker chips
[Read More]
Tracked on July 28, 2006 07:32 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Pussy sex
[Read More]
Tracked on July 28, 2006 08:48 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Pussy video
[Read More]
Tracked on July 31, 2006 02:57 AM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Pussy sex
[Read More]
Tracked on July 31, 2006 07:40 PM
» Sandra Martin from Kenneth Thompson
Stream in web
[Read More]
Tracked on August 1, 2006 12:19 PM